London has long been a world capital of men’s wear: It’s the city
that spawned the dandy, the home of Savile Row and Jermyn Street, and
the birthplace of “lo stile Inglese,” or what the Italians lovingly
refer to as “English style” — lots of color, texture and check fabrics.
In typically understated style, however, London has never shouted
about itself or held a high-profile men’s wear showcase similar to
those in Milan or Paris. But times are changing: The single day of men’s
shows tacked on at the end of each London Fashion Week in September and
February has from this season evolved into a three-day, international
men’s wear showcase.
Prince Charles — a well-known fan of double-breasted suits with
peaked lapels — will kick off the festivities with a cocktail party at
St. James’s Palace on June 14. Paul Smith, Burberry, Tom Ford, Calvin
Klein Collection, Louis Vuitton and Spencer Hart are among the labels
that will host events. Richard Nicoll will use the showcase to launch
his men’s wear line, Hardy Amies will unveil a collection of wardrobe
staples called Hardy Amies London and Savile Row’s tailors plan to host a
cocktail reception at the Burlington Arcade and will invite guests into
their showrooms and workshops.
While there is a definite frisson of excitement in the air,
designers are approaching the shows, which have been organized by the
British Fashion Council and the Fashion 2012 Men’s Wear Committee
chaired by British GQ editor Dylan Jones, with a degree of caution.
“It’s a big unknown for us,” said Sean Dixon, the cofounder and
managing director of Savile Row tailor Richard James, which will stage
its first runway show on June 17. “The show will help consolidate our
existing business and hopefully bring in new business. It’s something we
have to do and, at the very least, we’ll be getting nice visuals, a
great video and a nice buzz.”
James said among his inspirations for spring 2013 are “urban fete, with lots of color.”
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