Wednesday, May 30, 2012

London Getting Ready to Kick Off 2013 Season

London has long been a world capital of men’s wear: It’s the city that spawned the dandy, the home of Savile Row and Jermyn Street, and the birthplace of “lo stile Inglese,” or what the Italians lovingly refer to as “English style” — lots of color, texture and check fabrics.

In typically understated style, however, London has never shouted about itself or held a high-profile men’s wear showcase similar to those in Milan or Paris. But times are changing: The single day of men’s shows tacked on at the end of each London Fashion Week in September and February has from this season evolved into a three-day, international men’s wear showcase.

Prince Charles — a well-known fan of double-breasted suits with peaked lapels — will kick off the festivities with a cocktail party at St. James’s Palace on June 14. Paul Smith, Burberry, Tom Ford, Calvin Klein Collection, Louis Vuitton and Spencer Hart are among the labels that will host events. Richard Nicoll will use the showcase to launch his men’s wear line, Hardy Amies will unveil a collection of wardrobe staples called Hardy Amies London and Savile Row’s tailors plan to host a cocktail reception at the Burlington Arcade and will invite guests into their showrooms and workshops.


While there is a definite frisson of excitement in the air, designers are approaching the shows, which have been organized by the British Fashion Council and the Fashion 2012 Men’s Wear Committee chaired by British GQ editor Dylan Jones, with a degree of caution.

“It’s a big unknown for us,” said Sean Dixon, the cofounder and managing director of Savile Row tailor Richard James, which will stage its first runway show on June 17. “The show will help consolidate our existing business and hopefully bring in new business. It’s something we have to do and, at the very least, we’ll be getting nice visuals, a great video and a nice buzz.”

James said among his inspirations for spring 2013 are “urban fete, with lots of color.”



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